Mar 2026Q&A
Timing matters for most trees, and getting it wrong can affect the following season's growth or create disease risk. Here is what NZ horticultural guidance recommends.
Deciduous fruit trees (apples, pears, plums)
Winter dormancy is the right window — aim for July through August in the Bay of Plenty, before buds begin to swell. Trees are dormant, energy is stored in the roots, and there is less disease and pest risk. Make cuts at a 45-degree angle so water drains rather than pooling on the wound.
Citrus trees
Prune citrus in winter to reduce the risk of lemon tree borer, which is most active from spring through midsummer. Avoid pruning in September or October — fresh cut wood attracts the beetle. Remove crossing branches and open the canopy for airflow.
Deciduous ornamental trees
Late autumn or winter when the tree is dormant. Without leaves you can see the branch structure clearly, which makes assessment and cutting more accurate. Avoid late summer reductions.
Native species
Most New Zealand natives can be pruned year-round, but avoid heavy canopy reductions in mid-summer. Avoid exposing bark of newly pruned evergreens to direct summer sun — cambium can be damaged.
Spring-flowering trees (camellias, rhododendrons)
Prune immediately after they finish flowering in late spring. These flower on old wood — pruning in winter removes next season’s buds.
Palms
Remove dead fronds at any time of year. Avoid removing green fronds or over-stripping the canopy — a common mistake that stresses the tree.